March 19, 2008
Today's culinary world is trending away from the artificial and contrived toward foods that are natural, healthy and locally grown. Robert Larsen, the new executive chef of 360 Grill & Lounge in downtown New Brunswick, couldn't be happier.
The cozy dining area of 360 Grill & Lounge.My philosophy is to keep things simple," Larsen says. "I enjoy using products from area farmers and am also a huge fan of fresh herbs. Big garnishes are not my thing; if something doesn't seem to belong on a plate, I definitely won't put it there."
More of 360 Grill & Lounge's dining room.
A graduate of New York's Culinary Institute of America, Larsen grew up in South Plainfield and credits his grandmothers with instilling in him a passion for food and appreciation for the art of cooking.
The outside of 360 Grill & Lounge.
"My grandmothers taught me the basics even though both had totally different styles," he remembers. "My maternal grandmother had Polish roots and her cooking was more rustic, while my father's mother tended to serve more refined dishes. She'd prepare leg of lamb, make shrimp cocktails and also lecture me on proper table manners."
360 Grill & Lounge executive chef Bobby Larsen.
Larsen began working in restaurants when he was 13 and says his boss at a gourmet deli in Somerville encouraged him to attend culinary school.
"He recognized my dedication and passion"
After graduating from the Culinary Institute, Larsen worked as sous chef for The Stony Hill Inn in Hackensack until leaving New Jersey for Ohio, where he ran the Buckeye Hall of Fame Cafe in Columbus until eventually opening and managing his own restaurant for seven years.
"The menu featured contemporary American comfort food classics from across the country including meatloaf, fried chicken and great crab cakes," he said.
Now Larsen has returned to New Jersey to embark upon yet another culinary venture at 360 Grill & Lounge.
"It's an exciting challenge for me, and in mid-April I'll be unveiling our newly designed spring menu," he said. "Italian will still be its focus but also, as our name suggests, it will include a showcase of flavors from around the world."
Many of 360 Grill & Lounge's signature dishes including at least six pastas and three flatbreads will remain intact, but there will be an infusion of fresh, flavorful choices including the addition of specials.
"You're going to see more simple reductions as I am not big on rich, creamy sauces," Larsen said.
And the recently renovated interior of 360 Grill & Lounge lends itself well to the vibrant simplicity of Larsen's creations. The restaurant, which opened last October across from the New Brunswick train station, formerly was the home of La Fontana. But that is where any similarity ends. The new 360 Grill & Lounge is sleek, contemporary and inviting.
Attention to detail is apparent throughout with warm, wood tones, a long mosaic-tiled bar and sweeping entrance banquette. Lighting is appropriately subtle, and the entire restaurant evokes a sense of minimalist big-city style. But as welcoming as all this is, the star here is 360 Grill & Lounge's food and wine.
Veal Cardinale combines delicate scallopine with sauteed lobster and spinach; Pollo 360 Grill & Lounge's chicken cutlet is rolled with prosciutto and grilled eggplant and served with a cauliflower puree; herb spiced Salmone Antonella is accompanied by a fennel endive saffron light mustard sauce and prime rib is served with Madeira sauce, mushrooms and fried leeks.
There also are delectable pastas; Fettuccini al'Ortolano, a fresh fettucini topped with shrimp and garden vegetables; Ravioli di Porcini, fresh ravioli filled with porcini mushrooms then complemented with mascarpone demi-glace and clam rich Linguini Vongole, to name a few.
But rest assured no matter what dishes you select and whether it be dinner or some small plates from the enticing tapas assortment displayed on 360 Grill & Lounge's bar, Chef Larsen's food will be prepared superbly but simply.
ROBERT LARSEN'S CRAB CAKES
4 pounds lump crab 1 red pepper diced 1 red onion diced 4 dashes Tabasco 1 bunch parsley chopped 3 cups bread crumbs 3 cups mayonnaise 4 eggs 3 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning 1 cup white wine Saute pepper and onion; deglaze pan with white wine and reduce until dry. Combine with crabmeat, eggs, seasoning and mayo. Add breadcrumbs; allow mix to rest refrigerated for 20 minutes before forming into five ounce cakes. Fry or bake.
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